The Imperial City of Fez

Fez has become quite popular in recent years, although direct flights from the UK have come and gone, its accommodation has improved and we at Rediscover are proud to offer a good selection of personally chosen hotels and riads. Fez certainly has a different atmosphere and topography to Marrakech and, in our opinion, is an ideal city to visit and base yourselves in when touring the other sights and places of interest of Northern Morocco. As part of any longer holiday it is a not-to-be-missed destination in combination with Marrakech to contrast the two premier historic cities of Morocco.

Historically, the first of the Imperial Cities and made up of three centres, Fez deserves a couple of days of any visitor's time in Morocco, described as "The most perfectly preserved and working Mediaeval city in the world". Fez conjures up the same mysterious visions of an ancient world as that of Marrakech but in our opinion truly offers the visitor a culture shock beyond anything its southern counterpart could surpass. The oldest part is Fes el Bali and boasts within the Karaouine Mosque the world's oldest existing university. The newer part, Fes el Jadid, dates from the late Middle Ages and contains the Royal Palce and the Mellah (Jewish quarter). Why not choose Fes as a base for exploring nearby Meknes, the Roman ruins at Volubilis, Moulay Idriss and the spa towns of Moulay Yacoub and Sidi Harazem.

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(In addition to those properties given space on our web site we will be happy to obtain a price or offer our honest opinion on other hotels and riads; we have visited many that do not offer the required level of service or quality that we expect for our guests. Simply ask us if you had another property in mind and we will tell you what we know.)

Further information about Fez

The medina: traditionally your exploration of the medina should start at the Bab Boujlloud Gate. The first monument to visit is the vast Bou Inania medersa, with its cedar woodwork, its sculptured stucco and its marble and onyx decoration. As you continue along Talaa Kebira Street (big climb), you will particularly admire the Tijani zaouïa (zaouïa, sanctuary of a religious brotherhood) and the instrument makers' souk before arriving at the mzara (shrine) of the ancient sovereign Moulay Idriss situated at the place where he took the decision to build the town. Once you have passed the babouche vendors, you arrive in En-Nejjarine Square and the cabinetmakers' souk. The magnificent carved foundouk (caravanserai) on the square houses the Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts. The kissaria (covered market), where jewellery and fine fabrics are on sale, is nearby (it is shut at night). Next to it, you can admire the most visited and revered attraction in Fès: the zaouïa of Moulay Idriss, founder of the town.

The tanners' quarter: your walk continues on to Es-Seffarine Square, the coppersmith square, and then to the tanners' quarter situated just before the Andalusian quarter with its mosque and the Es-Sahrij medersa. Your walk ends at the old Dar Batha Palace whose Arabo-Andalusian style makes it a museum to visit absolutely. As it is specialised in the arts and traditions of Fès, it gives an excellent overview of all the local products of the town reputed for its craftsmen'sskills. This lively museum also hosts some of the concerts of the Festival of World Scared Musicwhich takes place every June. The Moqri Palace, hidden nearby behind high white walls, houses treasures of a rare architectural refinement. Prolong the dream by spoiling yourself with a night in the Jamaï Palace, previously the residence of a rich vizier now converted into a hotel.

The medersas: The imperial city is the capital of traditional Moroccan culture. Cradle of knowledge, for which its superb medersas are a flamboyant symbol. A medersa is a school where the Koran is taught along with all the classic subject of learning: mathematics, grammar, history, astronomy, medicine… In Morocco, and especially in Fès, medersas have the important role of integrating students from other regions. Generally they are built around a central courtyard with a fountain. Classes are held under the sumptuous arcades bordering it. The Karaouiyine Mosque is one of the most imposing in Morocco. It houses a university which is thought to be the oldest in the world and which was founded in the middle of the 9th century at a time when theology, grammar and Koranic law were the basic subjects taught. The El-Attarine Medersa, situated opposite it, is considered to be the most beautiful in the medina. The Merenids built this masterpiece between 1323 and 1325. Its central courtyard is magnificently decorated. Its walls are covered with sura engraved in wood or plaster. The fountain and marble columns are embellished with zellige (tiled mosaic). The Bou Inania Medersa, built between 1350 and 1357, is the biggest in Fès . Pass through the magnificent entrance with its heavy copper work doors, and then be impressed by the abundance of earthenware, the refinement of the sculptured wood and plaster and the chiselled stalactites called mukarnas, the hallmark of Merenid architecture. A canopy of typical Fès green tiles surmounts the onyx and marble courtyard.

Handicraft and cooking: You should visit the Dar Batha Museum before exploring the Fès El Bali souks. It is specialised in the arts and crafts of Fès and so will give you a good overview of all the handicraft made in a town renowned for the skill of its different guilds. The potters and ceramists are probably the most outstanding. The cobalt blue tin glazing has become the standard for the craftsmen of the town. You must visit the Wooden Arts and Crafts Museum, situated in one of the most beautiful buildings in Fès, the En-Nejjarine foundouk. Collections of different objects are exhibited in the old cells of this caravanserai. Moucharaby and wooden furniture can easily be purchased in the neighbourhood. You can find chiselled copperware articles near Es-Seffarine Place. Fes cuisine is derived from 13th century Arabo-Andalusian cooking. Its particularity is the association of sweet and salty by the use of fruit as vegetables. Spices, such as caraway, coriander, pepper, paprika, cinnamon are also used skilfully. You will find these ingredients in the pastilla, a local dish: a light flaky pastry filled with minced pigeon mixed with almonds and sugar. Don't miss the delicious bread just out of the public oven.

Monumental gates: the oldest Moroccan imperial city is protected by ramparts with monumental gates, ornamented with blue and green faience, such as Bab Ftouh or Bab Boujloud. Fès El Bali, the medina, has almost a 1000 alleys through which you will be guided by the noise and bustle of the souks. You should start at the Henné souk, which specialises in cosmetics, and head for the Jeld souk, renowned for its leatherwork, after passing through the Haïk souk where the fabric and wool merchants trade. The tanners' quarter, which exists since the Middle Ages, is an exhibition of enormous coloured vats. Near the souks you will come across several medersas, Koranic schools, often built beside a mosque. There are eight medersas in the medina amongst which the El Attarine medersa, situated opposite the Karaouiyine mosque, which is considered to be the gem of the medina. The Moulay Idriss mausoleum, in honour of the founder of Fès, can be found among these alleys; many pilgrims visit it throughout the year.

The foundouks: The old town has many foundouks, 115 in all, which previously were used for commercial trading. One of them, the En Nejjarine foundouk houses the must-see Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts. Fès El Jedid, the "new" town, was built in the 13th century and became the residence of princes. Many palaces, from this period, remain. Some, such as the Jamaï Palace, have been converted into luxury hotels. The mellah, the old Jewish quarter with its Danan synagogue and the old Jewish cemetery with its white tombs just below it, is situated in El Jedid.

Fès has adapted to modern life without losing its traditions. Its habitants have almost the same way of life as they had in the 13th century. Its cooking has such a fine reputation that several hotels and companies now organize courses of Fès cooking. During these participants visit markets, buy food and put what they have learnt in to practice. You can, also, enrol in pottery, calligraphy, Arabo-Andalusian music courses.

Activities: A magnificent golf course was created at the foot of the Atlas mountains in 1994. The Royal Golf Club of Fes is a very enjoyable course designed by the architect Cabell B. Robinson who also designed several other renowned golf courses in Morocco. Situated in a beautiful olive grove, golfers encounter lakes and gigantic bunkers; the largest covers 1200m²! Fès has a variety of horsemanship activities which you can practice according to your level and taste. You could opt for a relaxed ride on a quiet horse or opt for something more technical such as dressage. You could also choose to go on a horse trek lasting several days. Try one taking in Meknès and Volubilis. Tennis is also very popular. The Grand Prix of HRH Princess Lalla Meryem attracts famous players each year in May.

Sightseeing nearby: No matter what type of transportation you favour (horse riding, walking, car...), numerous tours, starting from the main locations in Fès, exist. Don't miss Sefrou and the Sebou Gorge, a spectacular canyon which are just 33km south-east of Fès. Another pleasant trip takes you to the waterfalls of the Aggaï oued. Volubilis, situated 73km west of Fès, is the most important antique site in Morocco. It is a large Roman town with superb mosaics and many buildings (triumphal arch, press-house, capitol...) which has been designated as a Unesco World Heritage of Humanity Site.

Fez is large and staying in the new town would require visitors to use taxis to get back and forth the medina although the new town does offer some nice cafes and restaurants without the overtly traditional Moroccan flavour, for example, try Casa Nostra for salad, pizza and excellent pasta. The Medina is huge and a guide is essential for your first visit; guides, which can be arranged through our local representative, will take you around the various souks, take in a view over the tanneries, visit the Karouine Mosque, formerly the biggest in Morocco, and a visit to some recommended places if you wish to purchase a carpet, leather goods, carpets, lamps, nougat, olives - all common purchases from Fez.

Customer comments:

" Want to thank you for our short break in Fez. All the guides were friendly and helpful. The riad was very interesting. All trips exciting and lovely. Riad Zamane was from another world. The owner is very special and her staff jolly and so very nice. "- L. Balinski-Jundzill (April, 2011)

"In Fez, our guide Mouwecine and the driver Aziz looked after us with immense kindness, politeness and humour."

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